We’re a sucker for a bit of worn in raw denim, showing signs of age and use (as we're sure you know, we are strong believers in hard wearing tough goods). We like our denim selvedged and folded up at the ankles, not as a fashion statement but as a pure necessity. The usual selvaged bit of indigo came unsanforised (not pre-shrunk) these jeans were made to last and worn to the fibre. Jacob Davis was the first to implement actual copper rivets at the stress points on denim. This micro addition became one of the main reasons for their rugged durable quality.
It’s always the smallest additions to a piece of clothing that makes the difference.
The denim which has flooded the world during the second half of the 20th century has since become more and more removed from its roots. Pants which have been washed and pre-destroyed using inexpensive ‘left over fibers’ to make a cheap product both in the way it is made and in the way it is consumed.
We can only welcome the recent ongoing rediscovery of the fact that a quality pair of jeans can give you so much more enjoyment and satisfaction. The raw denim scene is vibrant and gaining momentum with more and more people finding out that a pair of unwashed jeans made on an original machine that doesn't know any better than to finish the edge of the cloth with a selvedge edge. Showing the stitching on the inside of the piece of denim can be a proud representation of the owners style, although it’s not just for the educated denim-head, anyone can be proud of wearing denim…although it should be raw.
They are worth the extra investment since they will last you longer than pre-washed or a faded pair of jeans. What we love so much about a pair of raw jeans is that you can really make them special in your own way. An original pair of raws will show exactly how you have worn them, rough and rugged fading marks will start to show, and you’ll have a few good stories to tell.
Back in the 19th century
Within the quite extensive landscape of quality denim, we have fallen in love with The Pike Brothers. All the items made by The Pike Brothers are made as work wear, not moving away from their inherent quality as such but embracing it instead. This goes for all of their items ranging from shirts, coats, jackets and of course their denims. The denims come in various weight qualities which will tell you something about their thickness and wear.
Pike has also been using a prefix with all their styles. This is will quickly tell you the time period the piece is based upon. Their main three pant styles (next to a lot of others actually!) are the 1937, 1958 and 1963 Roamer Pants.
The 1937 is an 11oz denim pant with a high waist comfort fit with cinch back strap and buttons for suspenders. These pants are very true to original 1930s worker pants with heavy bar tacking on the pockets, belt loops and seam ends. These pants go very well with a pair of worker boots. Topping them off with a soft utility shirt for a worker look, or a classic looking 1908 miner shirt with its shawl collar, both really work well.
To finish this style off you can add any of the hardwearing vests that we have to offer. Combine the jeans with a vintage 1940s army field coat or a Pike Brothers Deck Jacket, will give you the full Marlon Brando look.
The 1958 pant is the heavier option, made out of 15oz selvaged denim. The fit is regular with a normal waist, and as with all Pike Brothers pants, a button fly. The 1958 is a shade darker than the other two pants. Pike, in general, has died their jeans somewhat darker. The idea behind this is that the color stays longer. This of course coming from a workers perspective, working in a pant will fade it for sure, but adding a bit more black to the die will keep your pants looking ‘clean’ longer! The 1958 pant is great to wear in a more vintage look with a slightly higher fold combined with a vintage varsity jacket and a henley type top.
During the late 50s and throughout the 1960s the denim style changed. It basically became slimmer. The 1963 pant reflects this. Made out of a comfortable 11oz quality denim, this pant has a low waist and a more narrow fit making this the most ‘mainstream’ style jeans Pike has to offer.
This pants come in a few different types of denim and can be combined with pretty much anything. In the beginning when the raw denim still shows they can be worn very nicely with a shirt for the more formal look, but when they start to fade a t-shirt, Hawaiian shirt or basically any camo jacket will do the job. We strongly believe in quality at a fair price. The denims - and all clothing in fact which The Pike Brothers make - are spot on when it comes to these two factors. Going for a pair of quality jeans will not only be a wise decision, it is also an economical/efficient one that will make you look good.
Once again thanks for stopping by and reading our Denim Style Guide. It's awesome to see the raw denim market picking up over the last few years.
As always we'll try our best to educate as much as possible.
We hope to see you soon
The Concrete Matter Family
Edited: The Brute Supply Co